Express Head Cab

Express, Liverpool, Rocket, Dirty Little Monster, etc.

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Big Jim
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Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

Hi folks,
Now that the Express is together, its time to make a cabinet. I've got some nice figured Cherry wood in the shop. I have to work all weekend, but I figured I would ask some questions to get geared towards starting this thing.(I'm goofing off at work on the computer). Does anyone have any advice on joinery or finishing. I want it to look as much like a real Wreck as possible. What kind of finish do the real Wrecks have? Glen? anybody who knows? 8)
Jim
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martin manning
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by martin manning »

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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

Thanks,
I've found those drawings. I guess my post was a little misleading. I was mostly wanting to know about any techniques and/or tricks used to achieve that little rabet joint shown on the drawing. Previous projects have taught me that something seemingly simple like that joint can be realtively difficult to get just right. Also, I wanted to know if the originals had a Poly, Lacquer, Varnish, Oil, or some other type of finish.
Jim
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

crickets.........I'm guessing I'll just see what I feel like doing when the time comes. Strange, not a carpenter in the bunch! :lol:
Jim
marcoloco961
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by marcoloco961 »

Big Jim wrote:crickets.........I'm guessing I'll just see what I feel like doing when the time comes. Strange, not a carpenter in the bunch! :lol:
Jim

There are many different ways to build the cab. Some use dove-tail joints. Others 45 the corners and use a biscuit joiner. I personally just 45 the corners and use dowel rods.

For how the actual wrecks were done, I don't pretend to have any idea. Most the pics I have seen look as if they were just 45 degree angles joined.

On the finish, again, there are many different ways depending on what type of result you desire. Larry Mann of Distortion cabinets uses a spray on finish. I believe he said it was called "water clear". Don't quote me on that please. The thread is here somewhere. His cabinets are superb, but require you to be good with a spray gun and have a proper area to do it in. I personally use the old fashion method of repeated coats of sanding sealer, then a fine buffing with steel wool and a polish with Johnson's paste wax. It's easier for me. Some just use an oil to treat the wood. Lots of options.

Posted is a pic of my oak cab and two pics of my favorite Larry Mann - "Distortion Cabs".
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CapnCrunch
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by CapnCrunch »

That's a pretty Bubinga box.

Jim,

Simple miters will work. If you take your time on scraps to get the 45's perfect, then apply good old yellow wood glue generously to the end grain, and let it soak in and nearly dry, 10-15 minutes or so, then re-apply glue assemble, and clamp (be sure you get it square, cause there is no adjustment once the glue sets up). You don't need biscuits or dowels or splines. You can add them if you want some additional psychological assurance, but the box will be plenty strong for a head without them, especially once the front and/or back are added. If you were building a combo I'd tell you that biscuits or splines (or dovetails) would be a great idea, but they really are not necessary for a head cab.
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated. I have worked with several finish mediums in the past, including Nitro Lacquer. Very expensive, caustic and tedious. I used it on a LPjr type scratch built guitar I did. I'll attach a pic or three for the heck of it. My favorite finish to work with is Tung Oil. It's cheap and idiot proof for the biggest part. I guess I'll test some cut offs with different finishes to see what works for me. Wish me luck!
Jim
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

Hey I almost forgot, I really dig the Express cab in Cherry with the friggin bear coming out of the front. To COOL! I saw that cab on a google search I did and I remember saying to myself, "that what I want my amp to look like"! How appropriate, a roaring bear for an amp that truly ROARS. 8)
Jim
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PlinytheWelder
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by PlinytheWelder »

Tru-Oil is hard to beat and easy to use...
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/woo ... &subcat=11

[img:300:384]http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/ima ... 23_lrg.jpg[/img]

A lot of Wal-Marts stock it.
Gary
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RJ Guitars
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Creating a Trainwreck Cabinet

Post by RJ Guitars »

I started a thread once on the hows and whys of Trainwreck cabinetry and I think we finally sorted it out... but it wasn't what it really appeared to be... at least to my eyes.

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=9973

Of course, Mr. Worley had previously reviewed and detailed the process so it was mostly a matter of finding his writings and photos. After the fact I sent these details to my cabinet maker and he said that it was "wacky" but he would do it for a reasonable fee.

Let me recall the gist of it... you create a box with a "not so amazing" step joint - you can see this from the rear view of a wreck cabinet. But here is the wacky part - then you essentially create a picture frame with 45 degree joints and glue that on to the front of the box. From the front it appears you have a cabinet with 45 degree joints and from the back it looks like the step joints.

My cabinet guy took a little heat for referring to this as "wacky" because he is a guitar amp cabinet guy I guess. This is some sort of old school furniture building technology and a few thought it was good stuff.

If you look at the Ron Worley LiL' Devil cabinet you can see the joints on this cabinet and see how looks.

BTW - excellent looking Les Paul there Big Jim!

enjoy!

rj
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Structo
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Structo »

PlinytheWelder wrote:Tru-Oil is hard to beat and easy to use...
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/woo ... &subcat=11

[img:300:384]http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/ima ... 23_lrg.jpg[/img]

A lot of Wal-Marts stock it.
A big +1 on Tru Oil.

You can find it anywhere gun supplies are sold.

I use that exclusively on my guitar necks.
It is not really an oil finish per say, it is a polymer varnish that gets hard when dry.
A very simple finish to apply, I just rub it in with my fingers.
I believe the heat from my fingers and the friction thin the oil just a bit and allow it to flow out well.
The secret to a great Tru Oil finish is to apply it in thin coats until the desired depth is achieved.

On my guitar necks that is usually around 6 coats.
On my Fender necks (rose wood fret boards) I do the Tru oil and let it dry a couple days then, steel wool it with 0000, then I spray nitro lacquer on the headstock and heel, so that it will age like lacquer does.

You can easily do three coats a day so in two days have all the oil on and by the fifth day be playing it.

I like to steel wool after about three coats to remove any bumps or lint, then wipe it down and continue with the coats.

A trick I learned was after you have all the coats on and it is hard, do your final light steel wooling then burnish the surface with a piece of old denim.
It will polish right up.

You can also wet sand and polish it just like lacquer if you give it about a week to cure before sanding.

THe small 3 oz bottle is enough for probably 20 necks.

Another trick is to take a tooth pick and poke a hole in the foil seal on top of the bottle and then you can drip out the amount you need.
Then when done, wipe off the top, screw the lid on and turn the bottle upside down.
That will prevent the oil from skinning over or drying on the surface when you turn it right side up.
My 2 cents
YMMV
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

I'm gettin stoked up for this headcab build. Went and bought me a Bosch router table and everything. I will probably do the build according to Ron Worley's drawings. I'm trying to make this build appear outwardly like the real mccoy. Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like most of KF's amps used the little dado joint deal in the corners with the seperately mitred front moulding. Not to say that a cabinet done in another fashion does not look good, in fact, I prefer the appearance of the continuous mitre. I'm just trying to be true to form where I can. Man some of these headcabs you guys posted are off the charts, simply gorgeous! I'm still up in the air on the finish. I have some pretty decent spray equipment, but man I HATE finishing. On the other hand, an oil finish doesn't quite get you the depth and spectacular grain the way a Poly finish does. Decisions decisions........ :?
Jim
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

P.S. I will be checking out that True Oil!
Jim
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Structo
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Structo »

In my opinion nothing pops the grain like an oil.

I hang out at guitar building and finishing forums.
The technique varies but a lot of builders use boiled linseed oil to pop the grain.
They put quite a bit on then after it has dried they will spray their clear lacquer over it.

Like I said, it is a very easy finish to get right with the Tru Oil and nothing feels better on a neck IMHO.
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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Big Jim
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Re: Express Head Cab

Post by Big Jim »

Thanks Tom!
I'm just taking it all in to see what I can do to do a nice job on the cab and get this beast closed up and ready for action. I sure am enjoying the look on peoples face when they hear this thing! A blast to play. Jim
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