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Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
 
   
   
   
  I bet that amp really is a stadium amp.
  I bet that amp really is a stadium amp. 
  
   
   
   
   
   wasn't that easy?
 wasn't that easy?  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
 
I read this, and instantly, before me I could see the schematic from input to power supply to outputAllynmey wrote:Gearhead, start with an express, add two tubes...make custom trannys, fiddle with the screens, Mess with the NFB loob, design and have fabricated a custom chassis, faceplates, and cabinet. Throw in a remote Bias knob, adjust the bias circuit entrance voltage, up the capacitance on the plates and screens, lower the resistance while doubling the wattage on the 1K sreen power node, add some bias points and voila'...
 I quickly reached for a pencil and paper and when I looked back....POOF
  I quickly reached for a pencil and paper and when I looked back....POOF  It was gone
  It was gone  
 
cameras hide a lot!Noel Grassy wrote:Allyn-san, seriously, how are you able to keep from leaving a fingerprint let alone little traces on your chassis during fab? Do you make your elves wear Tyvek booties & "bunny suits" when they clock in? I'm clearly in awe of your level of craftsmanship. Looks like I'll be down to the crossroads again this week since I'll never be able to sit at your feet.
Fuckin' sano as the hot rodder vernacular would exhort.
 
   
   
   
  Express! The rest was logical. Nothing to hide. If someone really wants to build one I'll tell!
  Express! The rest was logical. Nothing to hide. If someone really wants to build one I'll tell! 
 
More specific? Well, let me work on it.Allynmey wrote:Gearhead, start with an express, add two tubes...make custom trannys, fiddle with the screens, Mess with the NFB loob, design and have fabricated a custom chassis, faceplates, and cabinet. Throw in a remote Bias knob, adjust the bias circuit entrance voltage, up the capacitance on the plates and screens, lower the resistance while doubling the wattage on the 1K sreen power node, add some bias points and voila'





wasn't that easy?













Maybe you should be a little more specific!!


Allyn
Really...no secret. I don't clean up at all.Noel Grassy wrote:Yeah I thought you told the tale enough for someone to get their own going.
Back to my query, and I realize you are a busy individual. There are certain areas in your amps where one can't clean up after components and wiring have been installed. Strike that, short of using Q-tips, solvent and 180 grit or higher abrasives. The metalwork finish remains consistent throughout in
any of your products. You don't want to lob this doggy a bone? I respect your choice to keep your cards close to the vest.

 I usually coat a chassis with masking tape when i'm drilling and just draw on the masking tape. When I'm finished, I take off the masking tape and assemble. These chassis seem to not get too fingerprinted up.
  I usually coat a chassis with masking tape when i'm drilling and just draw on the masking tape. When I'm finished, I take off the masking tape and assemble. These chassis seem to not get too fingerprinted up. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  

Allyn, when you're fiddlin' and tweakin', are you working off the assembled components in the chassis or off some type of prototyping platformAllynmey wrote: ... fiddle with the screens, Mess with the NFB loop...

Quite honestly, I built it, fired it up, tubed it and it was done. I made only one change....the 220K entrance resistor to the bias circuit to 180K. I talked to a lot of people about changes to keep the same feel while, increasing the output. Remember we have a lot of talent here. I bounced ideas off of at least 6 or 7 guys before I went ahead and built it. Glad I did. I was under a deadline.drhulsey wrote:Allyn, when you're fiddlin' and tweakin', are you working off the assembled components in the chassis or off some type of prototyping platformAllynmey wrote: ... fiddle with the screens, Mess with the NFB loop...
