Stack O Cap Options

[overtone]

Being new to all this, I am probably presenting you here with a rather strange and cramped Rocket cap layout. This was a “warm up” build with odd parts before the real thing with transformers supplied by RJ.

Apart from this build being a training bed, I wanted to create a visual idea in the layout to help me understand what is going on. The schematic of the power section gave me the key: run the power from left to right, orientate caps +ve up and -ve down, run all the dropping resistors horizontally. Sandwiched between the caps are the individual stages, either on the board or running point to point.

Due to the limited space, and because I don't like wiring filaments, I made sub-boards for nearly everything. That meant I could wire up the sockets etc. all out of the box and drop them in.

It is a standard Rocket circuit with the addition of the P.I.G. Control, star grounding, a switch for C4 and a fan which was a waste of good space. The enclosure is a small Hammond 1444-22 which is very flimsy so I have a ¼ aluminum plate carrying the iron.

The images show the development of the layout and the final result. A great tribute to this circuit is that the amp has no hum or noise issues. I now intend using this layout principle on all my builds.

[Cliff Schecht]

That looks fantastic, especially if you are new to this. My first few builds (and even my lazier current ones) don't look that neat inside.


@SST: Perhaps you are right. I'm by no means a machining expert. But even when I use a drill press and a new bit I get a lot of curly shavings with thick or diecast aluminum. I always thought this was desirable as the finished holes always turn out best when the drilling leaves behind those curly ends. I may be getting confused with using standard drill bits where the aluminum tends to go up inside of the fluting and comes off as curly bits and pieces. Maybe some others can chime in on this nice thread derailing we have going on.

[TheGimp]

The only good use of WD-40 I know of is machining Aluminum, and some plastic like Lexan or Plexiglas.

WD-40 works great as a cutting fluid when machining Aluminum. Just spray it at the drill bit occasionally and you will be surprised at how much cleaner the holes come out. Clean up is another matter as WD-40 leaves a deposit that turns to wax when left on its own. I usually wash the parts with Kerosene when finished.

[M Fowler]

Overtone that is a great looking build but a whole lot more work compared to the simple Rocket layout normally used.

Mark

[RJ Guitars]

If you use the current-original Mallory's for stack of caps and the original chassis, need to be uber careful for clearance.

Do not, repeat do NOT sit them on top of even the tiniest screw head. Had to route out a groove in the head so the chassis would sit flat.

If you look at the pictures of an original Wreck you'll see that Ken Fischer actually mounted the power tranny with the screw heads inside the chassis and the nut on the outside. Because the Bud Box chassis is so thin the screw head still sticks up a bit but this did give a little more clearance.

I've taken this a step further and started using some relieved flathead screws that can be countersunk into the chassis (3/32" thick) and leave you with a smooth surface. This buys you just a little bit more room or as in the case of the Rocket amp, a ton more room. In my photo you can see I only did this on one of the screws rather than both like Ken Fischer did. I didn't need the extra clearance in this case.

rj

[daydreamer]

Being new to all this, I am probably presenting you here with a rather strange and cramped Rocket cap layout. This was a “warm up” build with odd parts before the real thing with transformers supplied by RJ.

Man, that is an FANTASTIC amp.


That amp seriously fries my brain, I can't imagine how you put it together, it just looks like some sort of sci-fi power station! Really cool man.

What is it with you amp builders though? You deserve the applause, start a new thread! If I wasn't an addict now, I would have missed out...

[M Fowler]

Years ago, after Dana had built an Express or/maybe Liverpool? combo I had to build one and the interior was a little cramped for PS caps but not too bad.

This went in a Line6 212 combo cabinet.

[angelodp]

Why not use the old fender cap box method ( kind of like the cap cans ) and clear out a whole bunch of real estate. Easy to get to and replace when necessary.

[ChrisM]

Why not use the old fender cap box method ( kind of like the cap cans ) and clear out a whole bunch of real estate. Easy to get to and replace when necessary.

Excessive B+ and ground wire runs are never good. That method only leads to problems.

[angelodp]

Plenty of 50+ year old amps with those boxes and they are going strong. Chris can you elaborate on what the problems might be.

Ange

[Ken Moon]

- moved to another thread...