How do you glue your filter caps together?

[Doug H]

More to the point: Why do you glue your filter caps together ?!?

I never understood this...

[CaseyJones]

More to the point: Why do you glue your filter caps together ?!?

I never understood this...

Because they're bulky components in a high vibration environment. If they're not secured you're taking a risk of mechanical failure i.e. broken solder joints.

I had one amp that would almost spit one of the electrolytics right off the board.

[Doug H]

Hmmm... I've never had a problem with this.

[Rick]

In my old Peavey tube amps, they just used some kind of rubbery, goopy glue and glued them (caps) to the circuit board. Their stuff was built to last obviously, as the number of old Peavey amps still in service and on ebay etc. is phenomenal. My Bravos (all 3) are from 1992 or so and with recapping all work like new.

[paulruby]

Silicone RTV cement is the glue of choice for this kind of stuff...

FYI, I use small tubes of Elmers from office max. The small tubes are great because you use them up quick instead of using a little and then having a solid tube of silicone the next time you need it....

http://www.createforless.com/products/p ... medium=cse

The link above shows it called "Silicone Sealant" but I would swear it was called "Stick-All" at office max.

[v846]

I use regular ol Silicone glue though careful to put it only where needed. Dow Corning also makes 3140 mil-a-46146 RTV non corrosive coating for electronics which might be a better bet regarding the acidic outgassing concern.

[Structo]

That is why you should use the RTV stuff.
Most modern vehicles can't have any silicone exposure in the induction because it can foul the emission components.

[geetarpicker]

I used regular "GE Silicone II" in my two builds. I did let them air out for quite a while before I sealed up the chassis. Maybe everything will crust over in a few years, but I kinda doubt it.

[v846]

I used regular "GE Silicone II" in my two builds. I did let them air out for quite a while before I sealed up the chassis. Maybe everything will crust over in a few years, but I kinda doubt it.

Some of my amps are 11 year old with no sign of any issues using the GE stuff. It’s a strong bond but you can disassemble for replacement without much trouble providing what the caps are attached to is fairly strong such as a chassis or G10 board, I would be hesitant to use it on old paper/phenol material fearing the bond could rip the board trying to remove a cap…

[paulruby]

I found the elmer's stuff online... "Stix-All" It's also at hardware and office supply stores.

http://underbid.com/action/display/item ... 28405.html

I use this for lots of general bonding of caps and locking things in place, like flimsy shielded wires, etc.

Allow it to fully dry before sealing up the amp...

[Rick]

I couldn't find the "Stix all" but I found "Ultra Stix all" also by Elmer's. It seems to stick OK, I hope. It seems to be very slow drying though, not so sure if I like it yet because of that. Maybe the regular "stix all" is faster drying. I guess it would be the thing to use before quitting and allow to set and dry overnight.

[paulruby]

I couldn't find the "Stix all" but I found "Ultra Stix all" also by Elmer's. It seems to stick OK, I hope. It seems to be very slow drying though, not so sure if I like it yet because of that. Maybe the regular "stix all" is faster drying. I guess it would be the thing to use before quitting and allow to set and dry overnight.

Exactly... It's the last thing you do before shutting out the lights. I like the slow drying because it smooths itself out really nice. Down side is it will tend to self-level, meaning it will spread out a lot if you use too much or will drip off if you try to put it on something sitting up in the air. But, it tends to work really nice in gaps and grooves an such. does a nice job underneath or between caps.

[BBQLS1]

Cool info, thanks guys!