For the microphone I was thinking either the RCA 44 you mentioned (this is what I meant when I said ribbon mic FWIW) or a Shure 55. The RCA sure would look classy but you have to find an angle that would make the wood burn legible.
For the tube idea use a good ST shaped bottle and tilt it a bit. Seems like a neat idea and I don't think I've seen it ever.
It's By hand. We are currently finishing up the practice cabinet.
I should have some pics of "Knotty Nadia" the mock up cab to post this weekend.
I'm leaving town tomorrow evening for a week. When I get back we will start offering a small run of one off hand drawn faceplates.
At this point we are planning on 15 faceplates (7 Express / 4 Liverpool / 4 Rocket) in 1/8" x 2" x 17" Cherry hardwood.
The back of the faceplate (Not seen when installed) will be pyrographed with the date it was created and the artist signature.
Prices will reflect the material cost and time it takes to draw the Image.
I've purchased in bulk to keep the cost as low as possible for premium quality lumber.
Is the trainwreck circuits text on the faceplate under copyright?
We aren't looking to piss anyone off just contribute to these wonderful amps and pay tribute to the authentic builds. If it is a legal issue we will not pyrographed the "Trainwreck Circuits" text on the faceplate. That space will be left blank. You can add it yourself if you so chose.
This is my cab, that is a work in progress. It's going to get Ostrich tolex with black corners and I'm going to stain and Tru-Oil the front panel and see how it comes out...
I may also offset the carry handle over the CG, just for giggles.
[img:600:450]http://verosurfcam.com/TW23.jpg[/img]
I'm curious how tolexing will turn out on the front panel? I can't see a way to not have a rather noticable seam since the faceplate has been dado'd into the shell.
Leaving the puddy and paint moto.. I guess a decorative bead strip or leaving the front panel exposed wood with a tucked tolex would work.
It might also work if you can heat up the tolex enough to become flexible without melting.
I know in hind sight if we were making the TW style cab and planning on tolexing we would have build the basic box tolexed it and added the front panel later with a typical support brace system to mount it to.
Since we are planning to only do exposed wood tolexing wont be a concern. Tight seems, straight, true, beautiful wood is our challenge.
We can now take orders on face plates. We have 1/8" Cherry hardwood arriving Wednesday. Each faceplate will be cut, drilled, and Pryographed to order. (express,liverpool,rocket,etc.)
I'll post more practice burns shortly.
we used a beagle for the prototype because it made my daughter happy. It's not easy to make a dog look bad ass so it made sense to use it as a practice burn. No two animals will be created twice.
I'm not 100% on the wood we used for the prototype most likely alder (poor man cherry) we picked it up from a local cabinet maker's scrap. later we stained the faceplate in Cherry Minwax out of curiousity.
We will leave the faceplates we sell unfinished unless otherwise requested.
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Last edited by selloutrr on Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
selloutrr wrote:I'm curious how tolexing will turn out on the front panel? I can't see a way to not have a rather noticable seam since the faceplate has been dado'd into the shell.
Leaving the puddy and paint moto.. I guess a decorative bead strip or leaving the front panel exposed wood with a tucked tolex would work.
It might also work if you can heat up the tolex enough to become flexible without melting.
I know in hind sight if we were making the TW style cab and planning on tolexing we would have build the basic box tolexed it and added the front panel later with a typical support brace system to mount it to.
Since we are planning to only do exposed wood tolexing wont be a concern. Tight seems, straight, true, beautiful wood is our challenge.
If the cab is completely constructed with a permanent valence you will have a weird looking cab if you try to tolex it all at once and you will have some unsightly seams.
I have used a single piece for the front and then wrapped the outside of the box, then cut the lip off of some medium to large piping and glued it to the inside edges. Its not the best way to build and tolex a box but it works and still looks great!