Liverpool w/ VVR Complete - Cab Photos added - Clips Added

[soma_hero]

Hey Steve,

Where did you ground the VVR board too? I've got mine going to the cap can ground. Similar amp layout as yours, but wondering where to ground the VVR.

[soma_hero]

Hey Steve,

Where did you ground the VVR board too? I've got mine going to the cap can ground. Similar amp layout as yours, but wondering where to ground the VVR.

[Richie]

enjoyed listening to the clips..

[HDeno]

Hey Steve!,

Congrats on the build, it's beautiful!!.. Just two quick questions for you concerning the cabinet build:

What kind of wood is that?

For the 45deg mitre joints on the enclosure, what did you use to strengten them? Biscuits (size)?.. or glue only?...

Your faceplace, is it laser etched?

Thank you!!!

Hugues

[sst4270]

HDeno,

The wood is Teak. The piece of lumber I chose had a combination of heartwood and sapwood. I loved the contrast. Mitred joints, glue only.

The faceplate is actually actually printed vinyl. I had it made at Kinkos. I supplied them with a 1:1 scale artwork file in PDF format. They print on adhesive backed vinyl. They have a wide variety of vinyl colors to choose from as well as printing colors. It was expensive IMO. I think I paid $50 for it. At the time I was exploring different faceplate ideas and wanted to try it out.
It is essentially a bumper sticker in terms of durability.

Regards,

Steve

[grangeramp]

Great live clip! Really enjoyed that.

Awesome looking/sounding amp! Very nice.

[HDeno]

Steve,

Thanks for the info!.. That wood is just great, will have to find a piece like that for myself!..

So you are only using mitre joints with glue only??.. Is it the 'standard' way of doing it?.. No additional strenghtening... Is it strong enough so there is no way it could come apart when holding the amp by the handle?... Last, what glue do you suggest, I was thinking of using Titebond III..

Lot's of questions, I know, but your results makes you a reference now!!!...'

regards

Hugues

[sst4270]

Hugues,

Regarding wood joinery. I know that dovetails, finger joints, and buscuits would be ideal for strength, but the photos I have seen of original TW's used lap joints with mitre cut front trim pieces.
Let's say I work for a company that builds tens of 1,000's of speaker cabinets a year. We use mitre joints almost exclusively. After 100's of drop tests it is primarily the material that fails before a good glue joint. (kind of like welding metal)
I intend to eventually get into building with finger joints and dovetails, but only with combo type cabinets, and primarily for decorative reasons. For a simple head cabinet, I firmly believe that the mitre joint is strong enough to support the cabinet being held by the handle. That presumes the use of a good hard-wood at least 3/4" thick.
Is it the standard way of doing it? I don't know, but think about this...
If the amp falls the wood cabinet surviving the fall will be the last of your worries. If the amp is built of heirloom quality wood and it used regularly for gigging purposes it's going to be handled with care because no one wants to their baby to dinged up. IMHO.

Yes. Titebond II or III.

Regards,


Steve

[HDeno]

Steve!..

Thank you once again for sharing your 'trade secrets'!....

As it is my first attemp at building a cabinet, you reassure me that glue will be strong enough and I don't necessarily need to use more complex techniques... Just for fun, I might try my hand at dovetailing as I have access to a jig, but I will definiteley consider doing mitre joints as well..

Hugues

[Structo]

If you have a table saw you can make box or finger joints very easily.

Here is one tutorial but there are others on the web.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=h ... oxjnt.html