Brad737 wrote:Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get a bottom plate for a Ceriatone chassis? I just ordered a Liverpull from Nik, but to my knowledge, the Ceriatones don't include that plate. (Or do they?)
Thanks,
Brad
They do not include the plate as far as I know. I recieved my express without it.
I will be getting one made up on a professional brake (probably with aircraft aluminum). I may be able to get a second. PM me if you're interested. It wouldn't be much at all, I think you'd probably only have to pay for shipping.
Brad737 wrote:Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get a bottom plate for a Ceriatone chassis? ...
I got my bottom plate from Allied Electronics (made by Hammond), and it fit perfectly on the chassis I got from Allynmey. If your Ceriatone chassis dimensions are 17" x 8", it should work for yours also The Ceriatone chassis is pictured with a bottom flange on each end. The bottom plate will secure to the flanges or can be secured to the bottom of the cab.
With Nik's chassis you may want to put a couple of "L" brackets on the front and back. He doesn't do the foldovers on the front and back. The weight of the amp will push down on the front and back and sag the chassis.
Allynmey wrote:With Nik's chassis you may want to put a couple of "L" brackets on the front and back. He doesn't do the foldovers on the front and back. The weight of the amp will push down on the front and back and sag the chassis.
Really? It seemed like to me that the chasis was sturdy enough. It's pretty thick Aluminum. I'm going to be loading mine into a matchless style cabinet so maybe I should brace it a lil.
Has there been variation on the ceriatone chasis thickness?
Allynmey wrote:With Nik's chassis you may want to put a couple of "L" brackets on the front and back. He doesn't do the foldovers on the front and back. The weight of the amp will push down on the front and back and sag the chassis.
Really? It seemed like to me that the chasis was sturdy enough. It's pretty thick Aluminum. I'm going to be loading mine into a matchless style cabinet so maybe I should brace it a lil.
Has there been variation on the ceriatone chasis thickness?
I believe he was asking about the TW style bottom plate with raised feet stamped into the chassis. Nik's chassis don't sag rather, the bottom plate will since it is raised 1/8" of the cabinet with no support in the front and back from Nik's chassis since he doesn't fold over the front and rear ridge. If you mount the chassis flat and NOT use the bottom plate discussed, you should be fine.
Allynmey wrote:With Nik's chassis you may want to put a couple of "L" brackets on the front and back. He doesn't do the foldovers on the front and back. The weight of the amp will push down on the front and back and sag the chassis.
Really? It seemed like to me that the chasis was sturdy enough. It's pretty thick Aluminum. I'm going to be loading mine into a matchless style cabinet so maybe I should brace it a lil.
Has there been variation on the ceriatone chasis thickness?
I believe he was asking about the TW style bottom plate with raised feet stamped into the chassis. Nik's chassis don't sag rather, the bottom plate will since it is raised 1/8" of the cabinet with no support in the front and back from Nik's chassis since he doesn't fold over the front and rear ridge. If you mount the chassis flat and NOT use the bottom plate discussed, you should be fine.
Ah gotcha. I'll redesign my RF shield a little then.
Allynmey wrote:With Nik's chassis you may want to put a couple of "L" brackets on the front and back. He doesn't do the foldovers on the front and back. The weight of the amp will push down on the front and back and sag the chassis.
Really? It seemed like to me that the chasis was sturdy enough. It's pretty thick Aluminum. I'm going to be loading mine into a matchless style cabinet so maybe I should brace it a lil.
Has there been variation on the ceriatone chasis thickness?
Brad737 wrote:I like the idea of putting foil inside the headbox, as long as it seals up well. There's this cool aluminum foil tape that's pretty thick that we use on the jets at work. I think this might work out nicely.
Honestly, I'm not trying to be a smarty pants here. I'm an amateur, and always looking to learn. Why do you think it needs to "seal up well"? If the chassis sits on the foil, IMO, it should do the job fine. RF isn't like water. It doesn't leak in. Such narrow opening that might possibly exist if the head isn't quite flat (or the cab isn't) -- I can't imagine it would be problematic.
The foil tape is a great idea. Sounds like you need to get it from an industrial supplier.
BTW, I dislike the idea of using flashing, as I believe it isn't IF you will cut your hands, but WHEN. I don't like sharp edges. YMMV, as they say.
Phil, the purpose of the bottom plate in the real 'wrecks is to stop the .051" chassis from caving in on itself. The trannys sag towards each other requiring a wooden dowel to be placed between the trannys by Ken. The 14 screws hold the original flimsy chassis together also. Back in KF's day, you couldn't get custom chassis cheaply and he used of the shelf BUD IND. chassis. It also is the way Ken mounted the amp to the cabinet.
Maybe a dumb question, but how do you deal with the tolex if you use a foil shield? Wouldn't the foil be difficult to apply consistently over the ends of the tolex?
The Ceriatone chassis is pictured with a bottom flange on each end. The bottom plate will secure to the flanges or can be secured to the bottom of the cab.
Thanks for reminding me. So much information and so little room for storage. 
