Anyone familiar with Heyboer Concorde Transformers?

[lgehrig4]

I started wiring my Concorde PT tonight and I just wanted to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

Solid Greens - to pilot/heaters
Blue & White - twisted to power switch
Purple & Black - twisted to power switch
Reds - to diode rectifier board
Yellows - twist and connect the ends
Blue/purple - bias tap to power board
Green/Yellow & Red/Yellow - twisted to ground
Black/White - not used for 120V
Purple/White - not used for 120V

Thanks!
Jeff

[pablogt]

I got this mail from Heyboer when I built mine
cheers
P.

HTS-8593

Primary # 1
Common Black
100 Volts Black/White
120 Volts White

Primary # 2
Common Purple
100 Volts Purple/White
120 Volts Blue

375 - 0 - 75 - 375 Volts
Red - Red/Yellow - Red/Blue - Red
5 Volt Yellows
6.3 Volts CT Green - Green/Yellow - Green

HTS-5526-1

Primary Brown - Red - Blue
Secondary:
Common Black
4 Ohm Orange
8 Ohm Yellow
16 Ohm Purple

Thanks,

Alden

[lgehrig4]

Thanks, but I'm still a bit of a newbie. I was checking to see if I'm installing it correctly. Looking at the photos of Allyns I don't even see a black/white or purple/white wire and I thought he used the same transformer.

[lgehrig4]

Finished this morning. I think I got it right just I just want to verify that I am not using the black/white and purple/white leads from the PT. When I bought these from R Hinson he sent me a schematic which showed that these are for 220v and 240v applications but I'm not sure if I could just clip and cap them or if there is something specific that I need to do.

I'll hook this up to my variac later after rechecking the solder connections and start the testing. Fingers crossed!

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[M Fowler]

My data states:

Black/purple= 0
Blue/white= 120v

pri 1 black 0, black/white 100v, white 120v

pri 2 purple 0, purple/white 100v, blue 120v

for 120v the black and purple together = 0 or common and tie white and blue together for the other leg 120v.

240v in series tie the white to purple and black with blue.
220v use the purple/white as the other leg

[lgehrig4]

Thanks!. I have this info too, but in layman's terms what do I do with the black/white and purple white leads if my amp is 120V? I'm assuming just clip and insulate them, but I just want to make sure.

Also, am I correct in connecting the 2 yellow wires of the PT? Seems that way from the photos, but I want to make sure before I fire this up.

[M Fowler]

Do not connect together must be individually wrapped. Yellow are 5v filament not used in Concorde so trim leads off the ends, shrink wrap and tie up. I left the leads long just incase I ever put in Dana Hall's switching circuit.

Yes the unused primary taps are clipped, shrink wrapped and tied up. I left mine long just incase I sold it for oversea user to convert.

[lgehrig4]

Thank you! I'll report back as I test. My amp is actually a Concorde power section with a k60 main board, aside from 2 caps which are .047uf instead of .022uf. I believe it was a prototype prior to the Concorde. The owner of the amp I'm copying had both a k60 and Concorde and likes this one best so I figured I'd give it a try.

[lgehrig4]

Ok, did some testing and the voltages seem a little high.

V1
Pin1=326, Pin3=3, Pin6=277, Pin8=2.27

V2
Pin6=413, Pin8=4.86

V3
Pin1=342, Pin2=37, Pin3=58, Pin6=292, Pin7=36, Pin8=51

V4 & V5
Pin3&4=505, Pin5=-48

The only place I know to measure the B+ voltage is at the connections from the main board to power board and they were as follows (top to bottom)
500v, 465v, 438v

After installing all the tubes I powered up slowly and when I got to 120v I started to bring up the bias (from lowest setting) and the amp started getting noisy. The sound could best be described as rain mixed with wind and it got louder as I brought up the bias.

The tubes were new JJ EL34s and GT preamps. I switched the V1 preamp and I will try the others as well as the power tubes but I doubt its a tube issue.

Where should I start troubleshooting assuming its not a tube issue?

Couple dumb questions:

1. The 220uf F&T capacitor is rated at 300V. Will this be ok since there is 500V running through it? I know its the same value used in Concordes, but perhaps the board is wired slightly different than I was aware of. I followed the exact K60 layout but just used the 220uf instead of 80uf in the one position. The rest are 80uf rated for 500v.

2. I know the heaters coming form the tranny are 6.3 the measurements I get on the tubes is 2.98v per side. Do I add these to get approx 6v or is something wrong?

Thanks!
Jeff

[pablogt]

We usually describe as "howling" the noise you get when the output transformer's secondaries are reversed. I would try exchanging the blue and brown leads from your OT.

P.

[lgehrig4]

Interesting. When I purchased these rhinson was pretty sure brown was on V4 and blue on V5. I looked at Allyns builds and he has it that way as well, but on the photo of an actual Komet its the other way around. However, the Komet is not using the same Heyboer so that probably doesn't matter.

I completely swapped out the tubes and it is much quieter. What I am hearing now at idle is a faint ticking sound. It's still a little bit noisier than I'd prefer but I still think its a bit too much noise.

I'll burn it in for a few hours and if the noises persist I'll try swapping the secondaries

[lgehrig4]

Looks like everything is fine after all. Just needed to burn in a bit. I removed the power tubes and played my ipod through it for about 8hrs and it's quieter and there is no abnormal noise. Even the popping of the standby and fast/gradual switch has quieted down.

This amp sounds real good and I guess it will open up even more as it continues to break in. I've had a couple of Concordes and K60s and I noticed that this amp is not as loud or has the same attack. The Komets have a stronger mid range and pop to the notes that make them unique and this amp lacks that. Feels more like a Marshall. Also, my amp doesn't clean up as well using the guitar's volume. It cleans up, just not a well right now.