DIY Airbrake / Lorlin Switch issues

[SteveKran]

Ok guys.....I just finished my DIY Airbrake build using everything in this layout. https://tubeamparchive.com/files/attenu ... 95_198.pdf

I'm having a problem getting ANY sound to come through. I'm unclear to whether this layout shows the solder lug numbers, or the numbers on the top (knob side) of the switch. I believe this is my number one problem.

I also just read that the switch itself has a tang washer to adjust the number of positions. I DO remember that as I was mounting the switch to the chassis, this 'tang washer' fell out and I carelessly put it back with disregard to the way it originally was (which I can't remember now). This now makes makes sense why I have ten positions instead of six. So in order to change the washer position, I'll need to unsolder the switch to gain access to it.


Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Steve

[M Fowler]

Steve does your switch correspond with the number in the layout?

There are various numbering systems used on these switches and I ran into this on mine.

I have several different layouts that you can use, email me.

Mark

[SteveKran]

Steve does your switch correspond with the number in the layout?

There are various numbering systems used on these switches and I ran into this on mine.

I have several different layouts that you can use, email me.

Mark

Mark

My switch doesn't correspond with the numbers in the layout.

I sent you an e-mail.

[Emrek]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread guys, I'm mega new here and I built the same thing and I am getting SOME attenuation but nothing major AND the big continuous resistor (for the lowest setting) one is not working. On top of that, my number are not corresponding, on this one it shows the numbers/lugs going clockwise while mine goes anti-clockwise.

Any advice?

Thanks

[M Fowler]

Yes see my email link below and send me a message so I can give you an alternate layout that will work for your switch.

Also, sand those large resistors so the contacts work, your DMM work then to set the taps.

Mark

[Emrek]

Thanks, emailed you so I hope you got it.
I also wanted to know if a 0.1uF cap with 250v rather than 400v will do or not.

Thanks

[M Fowler]

Emre,

I think the 200v cap would work just fine verses 400v.

I received your email and sent info.

Mark

[Emrek]

Thanks I got all your emails and I'll get started on it later. Solder time!!

[El Chiguete]

so is a fact that this schematic is bad? or it might work for some?

[M Fowler]

There is nothing wrong with the schematic it is just the rheostats are available with different sector numbering so when a person looks at a photo of a Z-brake or layout it doesn't match their rheostat numbering.

Slight confusion for those who paint by numbers which is okay nothing wrong with that for beginners.

The layout and info is not posted because the TW airbrake is currently being produced by Dr Z.


Mark