plook wrote:Here is another consideration i have only just thought of after looking at that fine finger-jointed cabinet. Mine is mitred and biscuit jointed. Would that be strong enough to hold the weight when hoisted by a handle on top?
My cabs are all dovetail jointed
I am nervous to put a handle on anything else exactly because of my concern that other joints would not handle the weight
On the other hand with finger joints or dovetails I carry combo's by their handles all the time. They don't move because of the structure of the joint
If you have biscuits then do side handles cut into the wood?
If you want the faceplate to look nice find a local trophy shop that has a laser.
You can take them your faceplate and the layout of the holes and control names such as volume.. bass... power.. etc.
Depending on where you go the cost can be anywhere between $25 to $50.
Just call some shops and see what is available.
And I will tell you it sure looks a lot better than woodburning..
Laser work can open a whole new realm for you...
plook wrote:Also, can anyone give me advice on how to add the 'burnt in' lettering on the wooden panel on the control plate. is there a template i could put over it to burn it.
Wrecks are way out of balance for a center handle......All the iron on one side. I like the flight case idea...might have to get one. Secondly, you can get lazer engraving done at most Trophy shops. They should have a pretty decent selection of images to pick from. Just an idea....
I can't find a pic but, I've seen some cabinets with two elongated holes cut in the side of the cab for carrying. Kind of like a crate. You could hole saw two holes and jig saw the centers out. Then use a router and quarter round to round over the edge. Looks good and no handle needed.
Here are three cabs I built a while back that do what you are talking about.
The Bubinga/Flame Maple cab was for a Komet 60.
The all Flame Maple cab was for my Komet Concorde.
And the Flame Maple with the laminated front panel was for my old Wizard Modern Classic. I borrowed this idea from Wizard cabs..
It is a great way to carry an amp...
This is a good thread, because these are types of questions I wonder about.
Right now, I of course have a handle on my Liverpool because it travels a lot and for now it is in just a laminated pine board cabinet. The balancing of it is not a big deal. It's still easy to carry with the handle (it doesn't need to hang from my hand perfectly level).
Once I'm not gigging as much I plan to make a nicer hardwood cabinet for it, but for now, the plan is to not worry about the the dings in the wood. Pine sort of absorbs the hits because it is so soft and they are felt more than seen. So, mine doesn't look impressive, but it sure is functional. I don't like wasting a a whole trip carrying only an amp.
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Damn brother, how much to have one of them cabs sent to Australia?
Too pretty!
Distortion wrote:Here are three cabs I built a while back that do what you are talking about.
The Bubinga/Flame Maple cab was for a Komet 60.
The all Flame Maple cab was for my Komet Concorde.
And the Flame Maple with the laminated front panel was for my old Wizard Modern Classic. I borrowed this idea from Wizard cabs..
It is a great way to carry an amp...
The built in handle really works well for the Wreck style amps... doesn't take away from the natural wood look and also makes moving the amp around very easy.
